Cortina d'Ampezzo

In winter

Winter here is a social season with mountains attached. Mornings on the Tofane or Faloria, a long lunch that refuses to apologize, then the Corso at dusk, furs and loden drifting between jewellers and wine bars. Nobody hurries. Hurrying is for people with connecting flights.

In summer

In summer the town swaps skis for linen. Open-top drives over the passes, terraces facing the Croda, hikes that end in spritz rather than summit photos. The light after an afternoon storm is the whole argument for staying a week.

Stay & table

The grand hotels have hosted crowned heads and film crews for a century and treat both with the same amused patience. Book the room with the view of the Tofane, take the half board, dress for dinner at least once.

Specific houses, tables and openings are covered in the Journal, with facts checked and dated.